MACAU : More Views and More Souvenirs (Day 3)

On the third and final day of my excursion to Macau, I packed my bags and headed over by bus to Taipa. The island was dotted by residential highrises, much like that of Hong Kong except on a smaller scale.

Residential highrises in Taipa north of Rua de Cunha

However, my main interest was in Taipa Village, particularly Rua de Cunha (where the souvenir shops and some of the more famous restaurants are located). Rua de Cunha offered many delicacies for me to bring back home and nibble at for some time. Some of these include the almond biscuits, nougats, and egg rolls.

The building which once stood as a market on Rua de Cunha


A beautiful blue building home to a famous restaurant on Rua de Cunha

The five reconstructed homes at the Casas-Museus da Taipa (Taipa Houses-Museum) offered some insight of life during colonial Macau. Although the idea of a waterfront attraction with lotus in the waters directly outside was a good intention, it was ruined by the recent massive reclamation of Cotai and the construction of the a huge casino resort (Venetian Macao), creating an eyesore at what would otherwise be a tranquil seashore.

One of the five homes in a beautiful colour at Casas-Museus da Taipa


Looking through the museum home to modern construction


the lotus pond and the imposing construction site of the future Venetian Macao casino resort

The summer heat and humidity quickly filled the air after a somewhat cooler day yesterday and so I left Taipa on bus 33, getting off at Largo do Senado, to get to the Macau Museum where I remained for at least an hour (for some needed air conditioning) and enjoyed more views from the fortress in which it was built. And, as always, I couldn't resist buying a few goodies from the stalls. I bought a few postcards and two magnets: one of Chapel Penha and the other of the symbolic chicken with the words "Portugal".

Chapel of Our Lady of Penha seen from Macau-Taipa Bridge


looking over Macau from the Macau Museum


looking west from the Macau Museum


looking through the fortress wall at Macau Museum


one last glimpse of Ruins of St. Paul's before heading for the ferries

I took the bus to a nearby place that sells delicacies from Southeast Asia. I bought some coconut pudding and cakes for my family in Hong Kong and headed for the ferries back to Hong Kong, hoping they wouldn't melt on the way home.

USEFUL LINKS:

• The Youth Hostels of the Education and Youth Affairs Bureau (with a required application form in English or Chinese)

• i-busnet.com (with non-official, but better, bus route information for both bus companies in English or Chinese)

• Transmac Bus Company (in Chinese only)

• TCM Bus Company (in Chinese or English, but both full of broken links)

• Macau Heritage Net
  

MACAU : Typhoon Too Week for Tourists (Day 2)

I woke up in the morning to a signal number 1 typhoon (the weakest). The rain hit hard on the concrete pavements and the winds blew fiercely against the glass windows. What a storm! But it gradually turned into a thunderstorm. My plans for beating the mainland tourists with an early walk from the A Ma Temple to the Ruins of Saint Paul's vanished and I felt like a stranded tourist at the fringe of Macau. So, I wandered inside the hostel for about an hour before heading out to find something to eat for breakfast (the rain had stopped for now but the strong winds remained). A brief walk along the beachfront this morning was quite different from the night before--sleeping dogs, closed restaurants, and an almost deserted Hac Sa Beach.

Hac-Sa Beach on the morning of June 28, 2006

We found a barbeque restaurant about a five-minute walk away and my roomate, Layton, and I sat down to order some food. We ended up being served two pork-chop buns (a famous food item in Macau) since the kitchen staff was busy cooking a few dozen take-outs for a nearby construction workers. By the time we finished our inexpensive but still filling Macanese specialty, I've observed that the weather had somewhat improved and concluded that it would probably not be too terrible for the rest of the day. So, after a farewell with my roomate, I jumped on the 21A Barra--A Ma Temple bus (luckily, I only waited for about a minute even though this is an hourly bus). The 21A bus was quite empty along the way, perhaps due to the infrequency of this particular bus route (only I had been on it for most of the trip...see the mirror in the picture below). People waiting at bus stops seemed to have a question mark on their faces as the bus slowed to pass by each bus stop (as though this bus had never existed). Or maybe it was just the poor weather that kept people home.

an empty bus 21A for A-Ma Temple via the Macau-Taipa Bridge

The typhoon, however, did not stop the flock of mainland tourists to praise the A Ma God at the temple on the southwestern tip of the Macau Peninsula. Another passing shower did not stop the faithful worshippers either. Incense filled the whole place, from inside out and across the stone paved plaza in front of the temple.

facade of A-Ma Temple


Looking up from inside the temple grounds.


Faithful Worshippers


Incense...Incense...Incense...

The strong smell of incense slowly drifted away as I moved away from the temple and climbed the hill. It was a longer and a tougher walk than I had expected, but I eventually made it to the top where the Chapel of Our Lady of Penha sits. Founded in 1622, this almost 400 year old church looks over the south including the Macau Tower and the Sai Van Bridge.

Southern view of the Macau Tower & Sai Van Bridge


Southeastern view of Taipa & Macau-Taipa Bridge


Facade of the Chapel of Our Lady of Penha

After lingering around for a good fifteen minutes (the grounds in front of the Chapel was nearly deserted except for five or six others) and enjoying the tranquility, I began to walk down the cobblestone lanes and headed for one of the older neighbourhoods on the peninsula. I strolled around the vicinity while heading in the direction of the Largo do Senado, the main plaza famous for its fountain and Portuguese-like mosaic pavements, visiting some UNESCO sites along the way.

Igreja de São Lourenco (St. Lawrence's Church). One of the three oldest churches in Macau and in very desperate need for repainting of its facade.


Renovation near completion at Seminario e Igreja de São José (St. Joseph's Seminary and Church)


Facade of Teatro Dom Pedro V (Dom Pedro V Theatre)


Igreja de Santo Agostinho (St. Augustine's Church) and...


...Largo de Santo Agostinho (St. Augustine's Square) with a street leading down the Largo do Senado (Senado Square)

But just before I wandered around Senado Square and its surroundings, I had to take a rest somewhere and eat a late lunch. I had always loved eating Portuguese-style Baked Chicken with rice back in Vancouver's café restaurants so that's the thing I ordered right when I sat down at a one in the heart of Macau.

Portuguese-style baked chicken at its best

After charging up, it's time for more strolling and photo shooting! Here are some shots from in and around the Largo do Senado area:

The fountain surrounded by lotus


The fountain again from a different angle


Santa Casa da Misericórdia (Holy House of Mercy)


A bench against a picturesque backdrop

the inner courtyard of Edifício do Leal Senado (the Loyal Senate)


the inner courtyard of Edifício do Leal Senado (the Loyal Senate)


a wall inside the Edifício do Leal Senado (the Loyal Senate) with stairs leading to the second floor

Walking through the maze of narrow streets, I reached Ruínas de São Paulo (Ruins of St Paul's), one of the key attractions of Macau. The staircase leading up to the facade had been, as usual, dotted with tourists pointing their cameras at the church which was destroyed by fire in 1835. The street leading to the ladders are filled with shops selling local delicacies and antique furniture, also attracting many tourists (including myself).

Looking towards the Ruins


East meets West. (back facade of Ruins of St. Paul's & the Na Tcha Temple)

Exhausted, I headed back to the hostel, found myself a good barbequed food dinner with a nice breeze on Hac-Sa Beach, and prepared for my final day.

MACAU : Where Churches and Casinos Collide (Day 1)

This is the first day of a three-day trip to Macau (one-hour ferry ride from Hong Kong).

All attractions were free at the time of visit unless otherwise mentioned. All prices mentioned are in Macau Patacas.

This is Macau. The Macau where new casinos, resorts, and attractions are opening at an alarming rate. Built on reclaimed land, it looks as though Macau were a paradise for gamblers floating on the sea (I wonder what would become of Macau when the water level rises due to climate change.). Below is the Sands Casino (opened 2004) and the Fisherman's Wharf (opened 2005), a resort which brings together architecture from around the world.

Taken at the pier immediately after alighting the ferry from Hong Kong.

Not wanting to linger around the ferry terminal for too much time, I began to head to my first destination--Fortaleza da Guia (Guia Fortress). But first, I had to find the bus.

Taken at Avenida da Amizade while looking for a bus to Guia Fortress.

After walking around and asking the locals for directions, I finally found the bus I needed. I confirmed with the bus driver whether the bus would stop by the Teleferico da Guia (Guia Cable Car). The bus driver told me it was my stop (after a three minutes or so) and that the Guia Cable Car was just around the corner (it was literally 10 steps away). Thinking back, I guess with all that time looking for the bus, I could have easily walked there from the ferry terminal.

Looking back down at the Guia Cable Car stop.

It seemed like a quiet day. There were only a few others taking the cable car to Guia Hill. Perhaps it is the scorching heat or maybe it is just because it was a Tuesday. After a quick and cheap ($2) ride, I arrived at the top, with some relief to see greenery and much needed shade. I bought a bottle of ice cold water, wiped off my sweat (it was bloody hot) and continued walking towards the main attraction--Guia Fortress.

Southeast view from Guia Hill.

On the way there, my attention was caught by a large cannon placed outside of the Air Raid Shelter Showroom. Built right into the hill, the narrow passageways was a sign of Guia Hill's military importance in Macau's past. Today, it is probably more of a relief from the summer heat and humidity outside.

Entrance to the Guia Hill Air Raid Shelter.

Guia Fortress

Finally! I have arrived after a what was seemingly a long trek from the ferry terminal. The air seemed to be fresher and the noise of the busy city below had faded away. Traffic below looked like a trail of ants. The Guia Lighthouse and the Chapel of Our Lady of Guia is just absolutely beautiful. The fortress is relaxing and clears the mind of all tensions (temporarily at least). It felt as though I was in Southern Europe! I'll let the pictures below do the explanation.

Northwest view from Guia Fortress.

Entrance to the Guia Fortress.

Inside the Guia Fortress.

The Guia Chapel and the Guia Lighthouse at the top.

For some reason, the site became blurry, as if the fog was rolling in from the seas (some kind of show put on for tourists?!). Apparently, the gardeners were spraying insect repellent all over Guia Hill and so, very unfortunately, my tour of the fortress had to be cut short. We were advised to leave the hill as quickly as possible, and, we literally ran down the hill with a plume of white cloud haunting after us.

Exhausted, I began to look for the place that I had looked up for some dessert. I stopped at an intersection not knowing which way to go because the map that I had was poorly drawn. And it did take me a while before I realised, so I just kept on walking. But I guess I was lucky in a way because the store opened (for me) two minutes after I arrived at the shopfront of Lai Kei. I had an ice cream sandwich (chocolate, vanilla, melon squished together by a waffle biscuit on both sides; Sorvete de Sandwhich) and a red bean dessert in milk with ice (Feijao encarnado), all for $15.

The ice cream sandwich box and the menu at Lai Kei.

Afterwards, I began wandering up and down Avenida do Conselheiro Ferreiro de Almeida (What a mouthful!). Engine noise from motorcycles persistently shocked my ears as their drivers (with their companions clutching onto their waists) drove down this one-way arterial street.

Looking north from pedestrian bridge on Avenida do Conselheiro Ferreiro de Almeida.

I walked about two blocks in from the main road and came to the grounds of São Lázaro (St. Lazarus). The grounds were empty, the streets just outside of the gates were empty too, except one lady talking on her cell phone under a tree. This place was surely quiet since it is not a major tourist attraction, but where were all the locals? Even though it was not a Sunday, there should at least be some people around. Anyway, I let myself not become over-concerned and continued on.

Taken from the grounds of São Lázaro.

I looked across from São Lázaro and found a building, apparently restored only recently to its colonial beauty. But when I looked behind the building and into the street, I saw a seemingly endless row of deteriorated apartments with cars and motorcycles all neatly parked onto the right side of the narrow street.

Afterwards, I headed back out onto Avenida do Conselheiro Ferreiro de Almeida where I began walking south towards Rua do Campo and Avenida da Praia Grande, the city's commercial district. The architecture of skyscrapers in this district did not surprise me from a distance, but when I began walking past its entrances, I noticed that the bases of these modern skyscrapers were (or were intentionally made to look like) colonial structures.

Taken at the corner of Avenida da Praia Grande & Avenida do Infante D. Henrique

Before I got too excited over the city of Macau, which was to be my main destination for the second day, I realized that I should begin heading over to check-in at the hostel (and drop off my heavy bags). Though the hostel was quite a distance from where I was, I remained local and stuck with the bus. Buses to Coloane (the farthest island) were the most infrequent and most expensive in Macau but still, it was a mere 15 minute wait and cost only $5 for the entire trip (a taxi ride is said to cost about $60-$70).

Pousada de Juventude de Hac-Sa, the hostel that I stayed at, was located at a bus stop just one before the terminus at Hac-Sa Beach (literally Black Sand Beach famous for its...black sand!).

Dropping my bags off in my room, I headed up the highest point on Coloane (Alto de Coloane) where the A-Ma Cultural Village (including the Tin Hau Palace) and the Statue of A-Ma are located. The view from the Statue offers excellent view back onto Hac-Sa Beach, Taipa Island, and Cotai--the enormous area of land reclaimed between Coloane and Taipa.

Tin Hau Palace at A-Ma Cultural Village

Statue of A-Ma

A view of Cotai from the Statue of A-Ma

Heading back down to the main road, I decided to stop by Coloane Village for an easy evening stroll. I picked up a few goodies from the bakery by the roundabout garden and walked along the shore (with China on the opposite shore).

Tenant selling dried salty fish and other dried goods

Old homes built on dried seabed

A deserted port...Ponte Cais de Coloane

The facade of Chapel of St. Francis Xavier